Out and About in Limoux

So what is there to do in Limoux?


Every morning since we have been here in Limoux we have woken up to a view of bright blue skies.

We are now heading into mid October and we are just feeling so smug that we can still sit outside and eat our lunch in shorts and sunglasses.....and yes we do wear t-shirts as well. Wherever you stand in Limoux, you can see green hills,trees and clear skies. And it still continues to thrill us.

One reason why we picked Limoux is its location. It is far enough South to allow the BBQ to only have a short time in hibernation and yet we are less than a couple of hours drive from skiing in the Pyrenees or swimming in the Mediterranean (no-one ever told us how cold that sea is!). Only yesterday we were out and about mooching around the countryside in beautiful sunny clear skies and yet were able to see the fabulous snow topped Pyrenees in the distance. It can't get much better.

Limoux is situated in a valley with the Aude River running right through the center of town. That is a another treat that we love. You can walk from the town square to the river in minutes and then stroll for miles (must get into the habit of saying kilometers) along the river edge and see only the occasional lazy canoe meandering past or perhaps the silent and ever patient fisherman. Our dog Lily is in seventh heaven.

With a population of 10,000 and growing, Limoux is not your average sleepy French town. What happened to the mid day siesta and the sleepy mid day afternoon streets? - we were quite looking forward to that.

As in many French towns and villages, life centers around "La Place". A lot of the old architecture remains but the old buildings are very much lived in. Getting to the square involves mastering a labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes which I have failed to understand. Bill on the other hand seems to have a built-in radar and sat nav which gets him wherever he wants to go.


Just today being a Sunday we wandered into town as we had heard there was a small brocante sale on. We were expecting a few weathered looking Frenchmen manning a couple of trestle tables and selling the odd rusty chisel or war memorabilia but no the place was alive and buzzing.

In the square the cafe waiters were busy placing little white 'petit cafe' cups on the round chequered tables whilst kids peddled excitedly around the fountain and French fluffy dogs (all French seem to have one) bounced around greeting each other. Not forgetting the men wandering around grasping two heavy balls in their hands as they meandered off to enter the umpteenth boules competition that seems to take place every weekend.

Sunday is obviously the day to meet, greet and play.

In the afternoon we wandered down to the local tennis club and knocked about a bit on a choice of five fabulous tennis courts. There seem to be so many public facilities available here to encourage people to get out and about and to benefit from the French love of culture, patrimonie, music, sport....

In spite of our ever challenged french verbal skills we are 'muddling through'. Actually that is not so true as Bill deserves a medal for braving all sorts of verbal situations and for being happy to be thrown into the lions den. Whereas Moi - well I still go into paralytic spasms when the phone rings or if someone talks to me without having the decency to warn me that they are about to open their mouth.

As for things for the kids to do well there seems to be no shortage. Naturally things revolve round what is on their MP3 player or the computer but occasionally they surface and join in the fun of the town. There's a cinema, open air concerts plus there are clubs galore (more than fifty apparently) - including rugby, tennis, theatre, swimming, and even aikido. Our 3 have joined all of those and are also wanting piano and guitar lessons plus the trombone.

Bill and I are also about to join the Association de Villes de France whereby we can have French, Italian and Spanish lessons and go on all sorts of outings and tastings and even learn Salsa and belly dancing. Now that would be interesting...

As for meeting people. Well the plan was to integrate with our local French kinsmen as soon as we arrived here in Limoux.

We are trying but it doesn't seem as easy as we had hoped. I think you naturally gravitate towards what seems familiar and so we have met several English speaking families with whom we have eaten, drunk and been merry. French neighbours and acquaintances are polite and welcoming but I think they too are wary at this stage to invite us round for a hearty evening of chit chat and merriment. Little do they realise that a glass of Blanquette de Limoux will quickly sort that problem out.

Actually next week we are going on an "Initiation à la Dégustation" at one of the local Blanquette wineries but that will be a whole story on its own I am sure. We know nothing about sniffing and swilling and spitting but maybe that is all about to change......

So when people ask us why we picked Limoux you can see that for now we have no shortage of answers.

Next Time: Sniffing, Swilling and Spitting - the famous Blanquette de Limoux.